ads Niva 2121 in 1/12 scale

Niva 2121 in 1/12 scale

I, as usual, with a story about DIY radio-controlled equipment, so those who wanted to read a review on a flashlight, headphones or a USB flash drive, please pass by. Time passed, the ruble became cheaper, the crown came and the 1/10 chassis had to be abandoned. Everything is simple here. The gearshift lever was made from the shaft of the same motor, whose magnets I use so actively. On the other hand, everything is exactly the same. I must say that the parcel went for a long, very long time. To make a smooth transition from the sidewall to the roof, I glue a strip of 4mm plastic along the contour of the sidewall and round it with sandpaper. From above, we fasten them with something like roof amplifiers. It is important that it fills all all the small and not very pores. Now the hood is simply removable and, as further operation has shown, it is much more convenient. For example, I decided to make bumpers like the original from aluminum. Firstly, the project was conceived more as a scale model for a shelf, rather than a full-fledged mud monster and super driving performance (which, I don’t think would be worse than some Axial) was not particularly interesting to me. Not only that, the front suspension does not really work because of this, but also when the wheels move when overcoming bumps, the car randomly turns where it wants. Oh yeah, the kit version puts a human servo on the steering rather than a discrete motor like the RTR version. Let’s get out of the situation on our own. Well, we digress. True, such a scheme has the right side effects, such as: the reversing lights are on when the engine is braking and when moving slowly, due to the PWM control of the motor, they flicker. Like this
it all looks together. But, moreover, the ABS plastic superglue glues very mediocrely, besides, it’s not easy to get close to the glass from the inside, and my glue dripped onto fresh paint … By the way, the Chinese did not include a part that attaches the servo to the frame, so I just had to glue it with superglue. That’s what happened. There are, of course, regular mounts, but 1. Well, here is the almost finished body. It is fastened in front with a screw and behind with a magnet. This is MN90. Yes, even with the cheapest deal, I was choked by a toad. As a result, in a stationery store I bought a folder for papers made of transparent red plastic and a triangle made of orange. We proceed to the manufacture of copy elements. Well, stop, wait, attentive readers will say, but how are the battery banks located somewhere in the depths of the cabin, there is no access to them, but how to charge them and how to balance them during charging ?! Calmly. The rear lights came out like this. Exactly under the shape of the roof and they are located at different heights from the end of the sidewall. By the way, I decided to make the hood and tailgate opening. Now we make a roof from strips of plastic. As a fastener I use a metal tube from a broken helicopter landing gear. Somehow, the soil or anti-gravity leaked into the hood hinges, and at the next opening, they didn’t just fall off. It doesn’t matter, others are already traveling with Ali. For all these reasons, I decided to place two 1300mAh cans in the double bottom of the cabin. Actually, here is the painted body. I made the mirror elements from a piece of PVC and foil from a candy. Yes, the soil lays down with a huge shagreen, but it does not matter. In this form, the chassis is already ready to drive, brake and turn on its own, so it’s time to move on to the next part. Lays flatter. I do this work with paints for poster models "Star". With a thin brush I painted the bodywork (circled the door openings and glass seals in black) and painted the door handles. So I cut out the drawing, trace the contours on the plastic and also cut it out. It seems complicated, but everything is clearly visible in the photo. I make two mirror parts. What a "bright" head came up with the idea to place the servo not on the bridge, but on the body … Thanks to the magnets at the front and back, the hood is held in the closed position very tightly. This time they had to be made very large, with the hood carried forward when opened. And secondly, my main hobby is aircraft models: copters and airplanes, and driving a car is what is called hunting. I just cut it into strips of the desired width and glued the frame for certain lighting fixtures. Next, I paint the whole thing, and I paste over the interior floor and arches with Carpet. Therefore, I take an automotive two-component primer, dilute it to a rather thick consistency and, with a little pressure, put it in several layers with intermediate drying and grinding. Actually, the entire interior looks like this: Mirrors also used from a donor. Everything is good. As a result, the body is very smooth and no longer seems to touch
PVC plastic. I cut from a plastic cola bottle. As soon as we reverse, the polarity of the power supply of the motor changes and the diodes already receive full voltage and they burn. A 12mm Merlin profile is perfect for this. Niva’s windshield is bent rather complicated
shape, so cutting it out of the CD case won’t work. The body is sent for putty-primer-paint, and we will deal with the interior and electronics. As a result, we got such loops. I made the levers of the RCP and the handbrake from toothpicks, and the handles at the ends from heat shrink. To begin with, I want to clarify a little: I decided to make the battery non-removable. Well, next to the connector for on / off. As a result, the final appearance of the car is as follows: Actually, this could have ended, if not for one circumstance: who rolled such cars knows the "feature" of the steering mechanism. I cut out the front and back panels from a sheet of plastic, glue 4mm thick plastic strips on the ends to make a smooth transition to the sidewalls and, on the back panel, using the method already described above, I make stamping for the license plate. I paint from a balloon with alkyd paint. This is how one can is placed inside the floor. Exit, transfer the server to the bridge. It does not matter that at first the roof will be steps, then we will sand and putty everything. There is simply nowhere to push a wheelbarrow almost half a meter long and weighing 4 kilos! In short, I decided to do it on the most budget-friendly (yes, who am I kidding … the cheapest!) chassis. This is how the primer of the body passes. They look like Niva. Yes, and on flying equipment, I also use Radiolink, but At9. I also made them from PVC, and as an axis I took a broken 1.5mm drill. But with the hood, everything is not so simple. Here is a photo of the finished sidewalls
inside and outside. He remains on staff. Hooray! By this time my MN90 has arrived and we can move on. I sand the first layer with sandpaper with a grain of 180-240 (first 180, then 240), the second 240-400, the third 400-600. Painted and painted a semblance of instruments. I remove the spacers between the thresholds, make a cutout in the engine shield under the frame and. As a result, he spat and made a removable hood with magnets. 2 in front and one in back. Yes, of course, that Niva came out with a continuous front axle and frame, but, as they say, the first pancake is lumpy. Do not worry that it is crooked, then we will ennoble. It was necessary to do this for one more reason. For convenience, I will divide the story into parts. The trunk lid hinges came out like this. For the colorless plastic for the reversing lens, I used a piece of a CD box. The radiator grill was glued from PVC strips,
and as glasses for the headlights, I used those that came with the regular body of the Defender. At home, copters and planes hang on all the walls, and they are also on the shelves. Here I want to apologize a little: the fact is that I did not take detailed photos, when work is in full swing, there is no time for photos. They will not fit under WPL bridges and on Mn without a file. 2. In the central tunnel there is a board for protecting the batteries from overdischarge and it also balances them when charging. A radio receiver is visible nearby. I wanted to put banks of 2200mAh, but alas, I found only one. The fact is that the roof on the VAZ 2121 is again convex in two directions and to make one from a single sheet of plastic … well, I don’t know how. When the car is moving forward, both terminals of the diode and it does not burn. This is how I place the future salon on the chassis:. This idea has matured in me for a long time, since those ancient times, when the trees were large, and the dollar was 50 rubles each. For starters, I downloaded a simple drawing of Niva 2121. Remember I cut the gas tank hatch on the body? It wasn’t just like that. We take the Defender’s native body, measure its maximum width and spread the sidewalls of our future Niva so that the overall width dimension is the same. Photo of a working light, front … and back … Actually, that’s all. You can try on the chassis. And then an emergency happened. Very flimsy. 3. This is a trunk floor and a rear body mount. Oh yes, I drill holes for the headlights with a stepped drill up to a diameter of 16mm. So part one: Body. Unfortunately, the whole car at this scale does not fit on an A4 sheet, but it doesn’t matter, I’ll draw the rest by hand. The strips are glued to the arc-amplifiers. I do the same with the window sill line. I am quite satisfied with the effort he develops, and when (and if) the plastic gears of his gearbox break, I will replace it. It turns out something like this. This is how charging works. Well, if you click on the button again, everything turns off. Initially, I wanted to make a scale model of my rather ordinary car, on a full-size 1/10 chassis. The rear windows were toned with a tinting film. Everything is like garage uncle Vasya! Well, coloring. As a result, I could not stand it, poked around on the internet, found out that the wheelbase (this is the main size for transferring the dimensions of a real car to a model) has a size of 195mm, and away we go. In order to give the finished part volume (and, let me remind you, it has a double curvature), stiffeners are glued on the back side of the glue. I ask those who are not indifferent here. . Here’s one: Next, I scaled it so that the size of the wheelbase when printed was exactly 195mm. I connected the reverse LEDs simply: plus directly from the receiver, minus from the positive output of the motor. I still drive on my proven Radiolink R4gs. Well, I attach the front seats and the gearshift and RCP levers, as well as the handbrake, to the cover. And this is how the door cards turned out. These are: Before sending for painting, there are still some little things to do. To wait with Alik for such a trifle, as a rule, for a long time. A few words about the dashboard: it was also naturally glued from PVC, the steering wheel was used from Defender. The middle is the highest and goes lower and lower towards the edges. So again I apologize for the flawed photos, I take pictures on the phone. Taillights, front headlights and repeaters made from a plastic card. In a vice, I give it a bend in the shape of the front or back panel, I make side fangs and a central lining from PVC. As a result, I glued the glasses onto a simple children’s plasticine, squeezed from my daughter. So, let’s get down to beauty. Yes, this is far from a full-fledged trophy, but at this stage I am satisfied with what I have. The regulator is visible from the front. Just cut them around the perimeter. Well, a few words about the steering servo. And actually the door handles, the hatch and the windows of the hood: Well, actually, with the first part, that’s it. And this is what the rear bumper looks like. By the way, I took them here: We need small ones. I checked how she storms natural obstacles. Enjoy and thanks for reading Actually, I cut out such a platform from PVC, glued it to the bridge, and glued the servo to it. Part 2: Salon electronics. I ordered the KIT version, because I didn’t
was burning with the desire to overpay for poor equipment and a battery that is still to be thrown away. I initially chose the cheapest chassis from 1/10 and for a reason. Part 3: Body painting and small copy elements. These are the jars I will use. It is also the cheapest and has even gained the nickname "folk" -for-Controller/33039618503.html I cut off the extra wires from it, made the case out of plastic, glued the radiators on the keys from the trimming of the U-shaped aluminum profile and filled everything with sealant. I just cut out the middle section, glued it back together and painted it. I cut off one of the walls from it and voila, the bumper is almost ready. Trying it all to the body and. . Cut through branded Niva cabin ventilation windows,
cut out the gas tank hatch, glue the door handles and make the trunk floor and rear seat backrest. Those who have worked with PVC know that it is very, very difficult, if not impossible, to remove absolutely all the small scratches after sanding. But for a very long time I was looking for what to make diffusers for them. Well, installed headlights and grille. I will not ride a wheelbarrow often and one Akum will be enough for me. then I want to make the maximum possible so that the wires are not visible and at the same time lower the center of gravity. But with the glasses there was a hassle. But, the next day, he again sat down to make loops. When all the layers of the soil are dried and sanded (not without jambs, of course), I decided to put anti-gravel, I don’t know why, but I decided. And I also didn’t really want to pay big money for this “out of the hunt”. Until we got our hands on it. Not! shattered into molecules. For this, loops had to be made. And here, an already primed body dries next to my other (and not quite mine) crafts. Please excuse the quality of the photo. As a lock, I used magnets from a failed 2212 quad motor. Yes, we probably won’t quite get into the exact proportions, but it’s more important to get into the dimensions of the chassis itself. We insert the mating part and the car is ready to go. Tried a lot of options, nothing. I put the body on the frame and decided to try the car a little on the go. We move on, I paint the back of the rear seat in a common color for them and glue the trunk with carpet. I also decided to use the trunk from the same Defender, only for the Niva it had to be shortened. Naturally, all boards are sealed with "Plastic 71" varnish. By the way, pay attention, I pasted and painted an imitation of the nameplate "Niva 1600" and the handles of the tailgate. After we make the roof
it remains to make the hood (the technology is the same as with the sidewalls) and the trunk lid. The idea is this: our arcs (those same amplifiers) have a convex arc shape. This is better than the stock on/off button on the regulator, as it only disables
power to the regulator controller, and the power circuit remains energized. I had to repaint the roof and give up superglue. I like to work with her more than with acrylic. We take it out, and it is completely de-energized. They are from the Akum of the racing quad and the current output is more than enough. As a result, when turning to the right, the machine crouches completely compressing the suspension, and when turning to the left, it rises accordingly. The interior is also planned in the model, so I also ennoble the inside of the sidewalls. I have nowhere to store a large wheelbarrow. So, we found the width and fasten the side pins with strips of thick plastic right behind the thresholds. As you can see, in order to place the receiver in the cramped space of the tunnel, I had to unsolder the contacts from it and throw out the case. Well, and … but how to charge the whole thing? Everything is simple. It’s too early to plant on the frame. By the way, the photo shows the attachment of the body to the frame. Well, at the end of the room and foglights. I make the rear arches, rear seat cushion and cover the central tunnel with a lid.

Niva 2121 in 1/12 scale

Good day, dear readers. Only ugly native wheels spoil everything, and even cling to the arches. All the best to all and by tradition, at the end of the text there are several small videos about pokatushki and assembling the model. this is a build slideshow. these are winter tests. and this is in the summer. I puttyed the body with a two-component automotive finishing putty. It turns out something like this: This is the front view, and this is the back. I’ll tell you briefly in words: where the prototype has ribs, we cut out the plastic along the contour and glue the patch with an overlap from the inside. At first I made small loops like the original, but the hood did not want to open, it caught on the front panel. Then soil. Below it is a 3.5mm charging jack. Okay, we digress. Looking ahead, I will say that the design withstood
channel, only the headlights and PTF are on, 2 times, only the dimensions are on, 3 times, everything is on, 4 times (the Chinese cannot do without it directly) something like an alarm mode: the dimensions and headlights flash alternately. So this part is called on a real car.

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